Saturday, February 18, 2006

Hello New Zealand


New Zealand
Aotearoa

Coat of arms of New Zealand

Coat of arms
Motto: None. Formerly "Onward"
Anthem: God Defend New Zealand
God Save The Queen[1]
Location of New Zealand
Capital Wellington
41°17′ S 174°47′ E
Largest city Auckland
Official language(s) English, Māori
Government Constitutional monarchy
Queen Elizabeth II
Dame Silvia Cartwright
Helen Clark
Independence
(From the U. K.)
September 26, 1907
Area
• Total
• Water (%)

268,680 km² (73rd)
2.1%
Population
2005 est.
2001 census
Density

4,107,883 (120th)
3,737,277
15/km² (163rd)
GDP (PPP)
• Total
• Per capita
2004 estimate
$96.18 billion (57th)
$23,897 (24th)
HDI (2003) 0.933 (19th) – high
Currency New Zealand dollar
($NZD)










Goat Island - Shakespeare Point




Goat Island
We came around a corner, and suddenly it was as if we'd stepped back in time, or into another universe. People were relaxed, kids romped around barefoot - no one belonging to any particular grown-ups. There were marshmallows on the fire, and a personal pop-bottle rocket show. There was not much concern for safety, just kick back and have fun.

(how Goat Island looks in better weather)In the morning, we went down to the ocean. We were here for the splendid family oriented snorkling, according to the web and the guide books. Well, it was family oriented, but boy, after Green Island on Taiwan, splendid it was not. There were some big blue fish, swimming vaguely through the water that was clouded from a big storm a few days before. Visibility was way down. The water was forceful and zingy cold. We swam out through a narrow (5') channel floating on the rush of water, either backwards or forwards. The little boy who used his gear to investigate the rock pools had the right idea.


The Kauri Forest


The Kauri tree (Agathis australis) is a coniferous tree native to the northern North Island of New Zealand. Kauri trees grow straight and tall to 40-50 m tall, with smooth bark and small oval leaves. Heavily logged in the past, Kauri are much less common than in pre-European times.

We thought the description of the Kauri warrented a visit, though it meant six hours of driving. And this is only across the tiny northern peninsula, at the top of the North Island. Fortunately our car was cute and comfortable, we got a thingy for the i-pod so we could play our music, and we had most of Jonathan Stroud's Ptolomy's Gate to get through. Besides, we were looking for oreo cows for our friend Constance in Taipei (black with a stripe of cream down the middle.

Agathis australis foliage

Agathis australis foliage

The leaves are 3-7 cm long and 1 cm broad, tough and leathery in texture, with no midrib; they are arranged in opposite pairs or whorls of three on the stem. The seed cones are globose, 5-7 cm diameter, and mature in 18-20 months after pollination; they disintegrate at maturity to release the seeds. The male (pollen) cones are cylindrical, 2-4 cm long and 1 cm thick.

The driving was over hilly meadowlands, few towns, few trees, shades of green and yellow. Then we saw the edge of the great forest approach. The land grew a little steeper, and the forest appeared unlike any forest we'd seen before. These are not pine trees, that dense green that approaches shadows in color, nor are they maple or aspen, with translucent leaves that tremble in any breath of wind. These were temperate trees, a wholly different breed. Still, we saw no kaori yet.

Kauri are predominantly found in the northern half of the North Island. The most famous are the Tane Mahuta and Te Matua Ngahere trees in Northland. Named after the Māori forest god and 'Father of the Forest' respectively, these trees have become tourist attractions due to their size.

The Kauri is the largest species of tree in New Zealand. The size and strength of kauri timber made it a popular wood for construction and ship building, particularly for masts of sailing ships. Its light colour makes it good for furniture. The tree sheds its bark in hand-sized chunks to prevent epiphytes from climbing it.

The ranger station has exhibits with stuffed kiwis, which were fascinating, but not what we came to see, so we went further up through the forest to the parking lot where the trails started. Here we could see Te Mahuta and the Four Sisters. We headed for Te Mahuta first - the largest around, oldest tree. Walking through the trees, we saw kaori after kaori, dwarfing the growth of their neighbors. They had a rugged bark much like a sycamore. We expected them to be like sequoias or the great camphor trees in Japan, but they were like themselves.

The path turned, and there, glowing majestically out of the shaded woods was a tree of such immensity that it made all those younger kaoris look like upstarts. It stood alone, in a small clearing, framed by the leaves of lesser trees. It was stunning. We stood there in awe for a moment, before we approached.


In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries kauri gum (semi-fossilised kauri resin) was a valuable commodity, particularly for varnish, and was the focus of a considerable industry at the time.
McKinely got some of the rosin with the hopes that she could use it on her cello bow, but her teacher says that it isn't pure enough. It sure is a lovely amber, though!


Square Kauri, 8 km east of Tapu on the road to Coroglen.

Square Kauri, 8 km east of Tapu on the road to Coroglen.

Roturua/ Mauri Village/ Blue Lake

Roturua is a must-see according to everything and anyone you ask. What they don't tell you is that this wonderous volcanic land has all its star attractions fenced up and you pay a hefty admission fee to get in.

Our first night there, we were at a place that seemed as if it would be amazing - a campground with swimming pool and hot tubs, even a traditional volcanic steam cooker. The downside was that the tents were as crowded as eggs in a carton, and we felt a little hard-boiled by morning.

But we found another place, and oh what a place. Much more private, a lovely grassy site under a full tree, and right across from Blue Lake, a popular swimming spot, with kayak rentals.

McKinley loved the raft, which would pile up with humanity until it reached a state
of overpopulation, and ker-splash! Joplin had a wonderful evening mountain-biking while McKinely and Alison went to a Maori dinner, so we all tried again the next day. Hint. If the road is named "Hill Road," it might be truth in advertising. It was a bit tough for us! The Maori hangi was an impressive way to share the dramatic aspects of an ancient culture, a great way for a group of talented people to make money. Better than a casino at cultural outreach. If you have a bunch of tourists wanting to come look at you, might as well give them something to look at and charge a chunk of change for the chance. Kia Ora!




Dunedin - Porpoise Bay

Christchurch NZ (not our photo)

It was time for the South Island. We took a flight into Christchurch, and were met by Bruce Graham and his daughter, just a year younger than Anika. Bruce and Alison's parents were great friends, going back to the two fathers playing at summer camp when they were children together. It had been nearly 30 years, but there was no question who was meeting whom at the airport! They have a wonderful house overlooking the city on the side of a hill. Bruce and his wife Reina are such strong, centered people, able to live their lives according to their principles and to what brings them joy. It was an inspiration to visit for the night. They plied us with maps and books and story CDs for McKinley to listen to in the car, and sent us off on a circle route around the South Island.

After a gray day's drive down the coastal plains with nothing much to distract from reading Bartimaeus, we came around a mountainous curve. The sun burst out, and below us spread the fantastic city of Dunedin. It is the city of Edinburgh, street by street, laid out on the hills of southern New Zealand. Some of the streets, because of this transplanting, are San Francisco steep (for much the same reason!) but the architecure is stunning and the city sings with culture. We headed off to a campground on the Otago peninsula, where there were said to be nesting Albatrosses and Little Blue Penguins.

(not our photos) Edinburgh, Scotland and Dunedin NZ


The Rhyme of the Ancient Marriner
At length did cross and Albatross,
Thorough the fog it came;
As if it had been a Christian soul,
We hailed it in God's name.


Way out at the point of the peninsula, there is a sanctuary for Royal Albatrosses. There they nest and feed their young on the cliffs. We got there, and within minutes, saw, wheeling among the smaller seagulls, these giant, glorious birds. They soar like sailplanes, with wingspans up to 3 meters. In minutes, they could circle the entire point.












(our photo on the left; pro photo on right!)

It grew dark, and we went down the cliffs to the side of the ocean to wait for penguins. There was a seal right there, enjoying the attention of people. When it was nearly pitch dark, the penguins returned. Little blue penguins, with a hundred-fifty nests all up the cliff. The babies were now as big as the parents (not large, for penguins, only two hands high) but they relied on their parents to go out and fish, and come back and feed them 'fish soup.' The baby penguins need to grow their waterproof feathers before they can swim in the cold ocean. They walked just like penguins - why were we surprised? It was jiggle, jiggle, waddle, then the babies cried out, keenign cries, and the parents gurgled back. You'd gurgle too, with a gullet full of partially digested fish soup ready to boil over for your baby.
(it was pitch dark, no flash photos allowed, so these pictures are from the web.)



We took a meandering trip along the southern coast, with our end goal the enticing campground at Porpoise Bay, with its promise of Hector's Dolphins swimming in the bay.
But first we wanted to go to a hidden cove where sea lions were said to have their home. It was a 10 km drive along a one-land dirt road, between rolling hills speckled with sheep.
The beach was maybe half a kilometer long, a pristine sandy slope with gentle waves. There, in the middle, was a great male sea lion who when we arrived, was thinking it was about time for a swim. We watched him stretch up (all 400 kilos!) and walk into the surf, looking remarkably like a lion. Then with a dip of his head, he was under the water, and gone. The other male was a little lazier. He sat up and with his fingered flippers, scratched his belly. Then with a satisfied Ooomph, he collapsed back down on the sand. We were so close, but he paid us no notice. The two females lay like driftwood logs. At first we thought they must be dead, but they were breathing, sleeping, warm in the southern sun. Joplin made a dam over a little stream crossing the beach, and McKinley wrote notes to her sister in the sand. It was a timeless span, just us and the sea lions and the beach and the great Pacific ocean, going all the way from here to there.


(Porpoise Bay campground McKinley photographing sea lions)
Porpoise Bay was lovely, the campsites set among cactus-like spikey plants. We looked for the dophins, and Joplin saw them, but they were not up close and playful as we'd hoped. Surely if Anika had been there, they would have flipped at our feet. But Anika was off skiing in the Dolomites. Such misery!
We did get to see another fantastic site, though - the return of the yellow-eyed penguins. These are much fewer in number than the little blues, but we saw them come hopping out of the ocean as the sun was setting, and even saw one parent do mouth-to-mouth
regurgiation with its teenage offspring. Our pictures were shaky, not good enough to share, but thanks to the web, we've been able to supplement our shortages so that you can get a glimpse of what we saw. The sunset is ours, though!

Porpoise Bay - Wanaka















Before we left the southern tip, we explored the petrified forest. Stone trees lay as they had fallen millions of years ago. This was where the baby yellow-eyed penguins were hiding, somewhere among these ancient branches and snake-like seaweed.



Did we mention that New Zealand is big? Looking at the guide books, there are so many tempting pleasures, but it really would take a year to see them all. We had 11 days. This day, we spent driving. Fortunately, it was through fascinating and progressively more stunning landscapes. Did we mention sheep? Apparently, when you come across a host of them sharing your road, you're just supposed to plow through. We were a tad
concerned about the effect on our rental car deposit, but the farmer grinned his ruddy face and told us to speed up. The Graham family had warned us that both the west coast and the east coast (and the southern coast, for that matter) were most lovely when it was sunny. If the weather was bad, it could be miserable. So we arranged with the weather gods for the rain to fall when the car needed washing, and only while we were on long, dull drives. As soon as the landscape grew interesting, the sun came out, and it was always shining for us when we stepped out of the car to adventure on foot. Thank you, kamisama!!!
This was an interesting piece of folkart!


We skirted past the popular adventure-traveller site of Queenstown, heading for Wanaka, which is an up-n-coming Queenstown. It really is lovely, with the only health food store we'd been able to find: Hello, Tofu!!!
We got the very last campsite, tucked behind the bath house, because there was a music festival across the road, and the campground was full of reggae lovers who wanted to not pay the $190 tickets, and enjoy the amplified music from an distance. We left before the bands began, but it was a fun and lovely night nonetheless.

We were heading towards the west coast. Our diligent search for oreo cows had still not born fruit. Brown cows of every shade, and many black and white spotted cows. But the perfect central stripe of cream... no sign of them.